News

Scoville Heat Scale and Pepper Names

Scoville Heat Scale and Pepper Names

 

1,463,700 Trinidad Scorpion Butch T

855,000-1,041,427 Bhut Jolokia

800,000-1,000,000 Trinidad Scorpion Pepper

350,000-580,000 Red Savina Habanero, Guyana Wiri Wiri
100,000-350,000 Habanero Pepper

100,000-325,000 Scotch Bonnet

100,000-225,000 Guyana Bird’s Eye Pepper

100,000-200,000 Jamaican Hot Pepper

100,000-125,000 Carolina Cayenne Pepper

95,000-110,000 Bahamian Pepper

85,000-115,000 Tabiche Pepper

50,000-100,000 Chiltepin Pepper

50,000-100,000 Thai Pepper

40,000-58,000 Pequin Pepper

40,000-50,000 Santaka Pepper

40,000-50,000 Super Chili Pepper

30,000-50,000 Cayenne Pepper

30,000-50,000 Tabasco Pepper

15,000-30,000 De Arbol Pepper

12,000-30,000 Manzano Pepper

5,000-23,000 Serrano Pepper

5,000-10,000 Chipotle Pepper

5,000-10,000 Hot Wax Pepper

2,500-8,000 Jalapeno Pepper

2,500-5,000 Guajillo Pepper

1,500-2,500 Rocotilla Pepper

1,000-2,000 Ancho Pepper

1,000-2,000 Poblano Pepper

1,000-2,000 Pasilla Pepper

700-1000 Coronado Pepper

500-2,500 Anaheim Pepper

500-1,000 New Mexico Pepper

500-700 Santa Fe Grande Pepper

100-500 Pimento Pepper

100-500 Pepperoncini Pepper

Asian vegetables and different names they are commonly known by

 

http://agriculture.vic.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/vegetables/vegetables-a-z/asian-vegetables/asian-vegetables-glossary

VEGETABLE GARDENING TIPS

VEGETABLE GARDENING TIPS

 

VEGETABLE GARDENING TIPS

Starting Seeds Indoors Many of our favorite garden vegetables benefit from an extra few weeks under grow lights or on a heating mat before planting out - tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant being just a few.

If you're in a short season growing zone though, don't forget that it's time to sow onions soon! see our Blog  section starting onions from seed indoors  for more information on seed starting

.Cool Season Vegetables

Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Chard Collards Garlic Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Seeds Mescluns Mustard Greens Radish Spinach

Seeds and Bulbs that can be Planted in the Fall

Flowering Onion, Allium Columbine, Aquilegia Corydalis, Corydalis Daphne, Daphne Cranesbill, Erodium Sea Holly, Eryngium Flowering Cabbage, Brassica Heather, Calluna Trumpet Vine, Allamanda Bleeding Heart, Dicentra Burning Bush, Dictamnus Butterfly Gaura, Gaura Golden Chain Tree, Allium Honeysuckle, Lonicera Shooting Star, Dodecatheon Gentian, Gentiana Christmas Rose, Helleborus Daylilies, Hemerocallis Iris, Iris Lavender, Lavandula Bitter Root, Lewisia Lilies, Lilium Cardinal Flowers, Lobelia Meadow Rue, Thalictrum Phlox, Phlox Primroses, Primula Self Heal, Prunella Pasque Flower, Pulsatilla Fingerleaf Rodgersia, Rodgersia Roses, Rosa Salal, Gaultheria Trillium, Trillium Twinspur, Diascia Verbena, Verbena Violets, Viola

You can look up your climate zone here: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/ If you have any question please feel free to ask !! We carry the finest Heirloom seeds, all our seeds our organic, non-gmo and untreated. We specializes in good, old-fashioned, organic, Heirloom, non-gmo, open pollinated vegetable, flower, and Fruit seeds. We have a wide variety of Organic, Heirloom, Rare,Exoctic, Open-pollinated & NON GMO ,Vegetable, Herb, Fruit, and Flower Seeds for sale. Companion Planting! The benefits of Companion Planting include: Minimizing Risk: Increases odds of higher yields even if one crop fails or you are effected by natural hardships such as weather, pests or disease, the overall yield of your plot may be increased by limiting the spread and avoiding a monoculture instead focus on polyculture or mimicing the best natural growth patterns and diversity. Crop Protection/ Shielding: Companion Planting can offer a more delicate plant shelter from weather such as wind or sun by growing aside another plant which can shield and protect while itself having a natural defence against the harsher conditions. Trap Cropping: Companion planting is also the ultimate organic pest management, you may keep away unwanted pests that may be attracted to one crop but repelled by the other and this will assit in protecting the otherwise attractive prey, this is referred to as trap cropping. Positive hosting: Predator recruitment typically in planting in proximity to plants which produce a surplus of nectar and pollen you can increase the population of beneficial insects that will manage your harmful pest population for you.

Here are some basic guidelines for successful companion planting: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/companion-planting-guide-zmaz81mjzraw.aspx#axzz3AmMXstdE

starting onions from seed indoors

starting onions from seed indoors

 

Sowing inside in January or February under growing lights then transplanting to the garden in early spring is the only way that I can grow onions from seed and have them mature in my zone 5 garden. If you live in more southern areas, you can plant onion seeds in late summer to early fall, overwinter, and they will begin growing when the weather warms.

You can get at least an 8 - 12 week headstart on the outdoor onion growing season by starting your onion seeds under a T5 fluorescent grow light. Obviously, starting onions from seed rather than starting from bulbs requires a little extra time anyway. In colder areas in the northern hemisphere you can get started in December (hey it gives you something to do over the winter months) to have seedlings ready to transplant into the garden in early Spring. You can also get Japanese (overwintering) varieties started in August when the intense heat in warmer areas can make starting seedlings difficult. 

Any standard seedling potting mix is fine. Avoid anything with too much nitrogen at first - your onions only require lots of this later! For the first few weeks it's all about roots and starting to build a bulb. I like to mix in some vermiculite (1 part vermiculite, 4 parts potting mix) as this aids in nutrient and moisture retention. Fill flats or cell trays with a well moistened mix - it should be quite wet without being sludge - sprinkle seeds generously and top off with a quarter inch of wet vermiculite. The top layer of wet vermiculite is like a duvet for the seeds - it keeps moisture and temperature levels constant and certainly increases germination rates.

Find a cool spot in your house like a basement or garage. Use a propagator lid on top of your cell tray or flat to help raise relative humidity levels. Lift it once each day for a quick visual inspection. Onion germination is most fast and reliable in the low 70s fahrenheit. A commonly accepted range is 68-75°F (20-24°C). Use a heat mat to keep the bottom of your propagator but discontinue use once the majority of the viable seeds appear to have sprouted.

As a general rule of thumb, you should set your T5 fluorescent grow lights on to 12 hours a day to start onion seeds. Keep your T5 fluorescent grow light raised up at least a foot or so above the propagator - monitor temperatures inside the propgator using a min/max thermometer with a remote probe. Don't let it get too warm in there! If temperatures are higher than the mid 70s, try raising your lights or discontinuing use of your heat mat.

Planting flowers in Pots and container

Planting flowers in Pots and container

How Not To Kill Plants In Containers

Thing must avoid to make your container plants keep growing.

 

1. Overwatering

Many new gardeners believe that the more they water, the better. All plants (including non-potted plants) have the different watering needs and *those needs may also vary depending upon the time of the year or season, the amount of light and ambient temperature. The easiest solution to avoid this problem is knowing the moisture level required by each plant.

2. Underwatering

It is equally harmful to the plants. Back to the same point, it is essential to know the moisture requirements of each plant to keep them healthy. Also, it is obvious, in summer all the plants require more water, and you should double the amount of water. When you water your plants, do it thoroughly, so that the entire substrate moisten well and the slight amount of water seeps out from the bottom holes of the pots and then wait for it to dry (with the method of poking your finger) and then water again.

3. You do not know everything about the plant

No two plants are identical. The number one thing you should do is read the instructions that come with the plant you have acquired. Always, when you purchase plants in the nursery ask them about the growing requirements. Whenever you get a new plant search about it thoroughly on the web. There are many gardening websites (ours too) and blogs of enthusiastic gardeners who have excellent information about plants.

Yo might be wrong if you think all plants love the sun, there are some that require shade or part shade. According to experts, the plants themselves can tell us if they are getting the right amount of light or not. For example, the leaves may change color or become scorched or brownish if they are getting too much sunlight. On the other hand, if you notice that your plant is “stretching its neck” toward the light or the leaves are excessively bigger then they definitely need more light. One thing to be noted is that when the warm climate plants are grown in colder zones (whether they are grown there in full or part sun), they require full sun. Similarly, the temperate plants in warm tropics grow best in part sun or shade.

5. Moving or changing position of plants

6. Incorrect soil

Each plant species has different planting needs and soil requirements. It is recommended that you do proper research about the soil type before planting any plant. However, in containers, well-draining soil is used to avoid root rot. You can make your own light and crumbly soilless mix or buy an organic potting mix of good quality.

7. No transplanting

Potted plants may feel “subjected” to their containers. The majority of them outgrow their pots over a period of about one to two years (depending on how quickly they grow), so it is important that you transplant them into a larger container with fresh and well-nourished potting soil. You can prune the roots of your plants if you don’t want to change their existing pot.

8. Ignoring the pests

Some of the most common pests that can affect your potted plants are aphids, spider mites, scales, whiteflies, and mealybugs. You can prevent pests from attacking your container garden with some techniques. Whenever you buy a new plant, scrutinize it to see any sign of pests or diseases. Keep an eye on diseased or weak plants or the ones that are in stress; pests prefer to attack such plants. Look at the inside of leaves and tips of the plants; these are the parts that pests infest most. If pests are already damaging your plants, first identify what type of pests they are and then treat them appropriately, prefer organic pesticides.

9. Carelessness

Are you going on a vacation? It is good for you but not for your potted plants. Be sure to make arrangements for them. Ask someone to come and water the plants when you are away. Another option is to use self-watering containers, they are great especially if you’re a busy person and often forget about watering your plants.

10. Less or no fertilizer

Potted plants depend on soil nutrients and can often require supplements to grow better and healthy besides improving the production of flowers and fruits. Using a balanced fertilizer (easily available) regularly and according to the package instructions, you can ensure that your plants are getting all the nutrients they need. While most of your plants do well with balanced fertilizer, there may be some that require a specific combination of nutrients.

11. Overfertilization

Overfertilization can also harm your plants. It can even kill them. Fertilizers, when used in excess, can damage the roots. If you see the symptoms like yellowing and wilting of lower leaves, browning leaf tips, and its margins, defoliation, slow or no growth, then it is possible that your plant is suffering from overfertilization.

12. No pinching, deadheading, and pruning

 

If you want bushier growth, pinch the tips of young plants. Also, many flowering plants require “deadheading,” which means picking and removing the old flowers to promote new ones. You will know when to remove them once the flowers start to fade or wilt or turn brownish.

Potted plants require pruning too, and on time, some of the fruits and flowering plants produce only on new branches, so if you must not ignore pruning.

13. Exposing to extreme temperatures

If you research carefully about the plants, you’ll find how much temperature (maximum or minimum) they tolerate best. In winters, if require, it is good if you protect such plants by keeping them indoors or in a greenhouse.

If you’re living in a warm climate where summers are hot, protect your plants from the intense sun in summer.

18 ideas in Container flowers , Pintrest

18 ideas in Container flowers , Pintrest

 

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/#inbox/WhctKJVBHkBWfPgDnrFkrQcsDCbDdtrzhbXLbNztHfmbDFqvXPpTbHCTdblJBdRkMXphWlv

Planting Tulip

Planting Tulip

 

Plant tulips any time the soil 6 inches deep is 60? F or colder. As a general guide, plant in September or early October in USDA Climate Hardiness Zones 4 and 5; October to early November in zones 6 and 7; November to early December inzones 8 and 9; and late December to early January in zone 10. Bulbs in warm areas.

https://www.caribbeangardenseed.com/collections/bulbs

TIME To Plant

TIME To Plant

Time to order and sow Onions, Leeks, Parsley, Celeriac and Celery

It's finally time to start preparing and seeding spring crops! Between now and the middle of February, we'll be starting to sow our onions, leeks, early-spring scallions, parsley, celery and celeriac. All these crops need a long, loving start to be glorious during the spring, summer, fall and even next winter.

 

Ventura Celery

Flowers Growing Info

Flowers Growing Info

 

Annual Flowers
Variety Indoor Sowing Date Days to Max Germination Soil Temp F° Planting Depth Weeks to Transplant
Ageratum 
Alyssum 
Amaranthus 
Aster 
Bachelor Button 
Baby’s Breath 
Celosia 
Coleus 
Cosmos 
Daisies 
Geraniums 
Impatiens 
Marigolds 
Moon flower 
Morning Glory 
Nasturtium 
Pansy 
Petunia 
Salvia 
Sun flower 
Sweet Pea 
Vinca 
Zinnias
Dec-Mar 
Dec-Mar 
Dec-Mar 
Jan-Apr 
Feb-Mar 
Feb-Mar 
Jan-Apr 
Dec-Mar 
Jan-Apr 
Feb-Mar 
Nov-Feb 
Dec-Mar 
Jan-Apr 
Feb-Mar 
Feb-Mar 
Feb-Mar 
Nov-Feb 
Dec-Mar 
Dec-Mar 
Feb-Mar 
Feb-Mar 
Dec-Mar 
Jan-Apr


14 



10 
10 


4-10 
15 




16 
10 
15 


15 
7
75-78 
78-82 
68-70 
70-75 
68-70 
68-72 
70-80 
70-75 
68-72 
70-75 
70-75 
68-72 
70-80 
70-75 
70-75 
70-74 
55-65 
70-80 
75-78 
70-80 
70-75 
70-80 
68-72
1/8” 
1/6" 
1/2” 
1/8" 
1/4” 
1/4" 
1/8” 
1/4" 
1/4” 
1/4” 
1/2” 
1/8” 
1/8" 
1/4” 
1/4” 
1/2” 
1/8” 
top 
1/10” 
1” 
1” 
1/4" 
1/8”
8-10 
10-12 
7-9 

4-6 
6-8 

6-9 

5-6 
14-16 
10-12 
6-9 
6-8 
4-5 

6-10 
10 

N/A 
4-6 
12 
5-8

Perennial Flowers
 Variety  Planting Depth  Indoor Sowing Date  Outdoor Sowing Date Soil Temp F°   Height" Spread"  Soil Light 
Achillea 
Black Eyed Susan 
Blanket Flower 
Butter y Flower 
Candytuft 
Cone flower 
Coreopsis 
Dahlia 
Daisies 
Delpinium 
Dianthus 
Foxglove 
Geraniums 
Hosta 
Hollyhock 
Lupine 
Penstemon 
Phlox 
Poppy 
Primrose 
Rudbeckia 
Tansy 
Viola
1/8” 
1/4” 
1/8" 
1/8” 
1/8” 
1/4" 
1/8” 
1/8” 
1/8" 
1/8” 
1/8" 
1/8” 
1/8” 
1/2” 
1/8" 
1/8” 
Top 
1/8” 
3/8" 
1/8” 
1/4” 
1/4" 
1/8”
6-8 
N/A 

6-8 
6-8 
N/A 
N/A 
6-8 
N/A 

6-8 
N/A 
6-10 
6-10 
6-8 
N/A 
6-8 
6-8 
6-8 
N/A 
N/A 
N/A 
6-8
Early 
Anytime 
1-4 after 
1-4 after 
Early 
Early 
1-4 after 
Early 
Early 
1-4 after 
Early 
Early 
1-4 after 
Early 
Early 
2-4 after 
2-6 
Early 
Anytime 
Early 
Anytime 
Early 
Early
60 
60 
70 
70 
65 
70 
70 
65 
60 
60 
70 
65 
70 
70 
65 
70 
70 
60 
60 
60 
60 
65 
65
24-36” 
24-36” 
24-40” 
24-36” 
1-15” 
24-42” 
18-48” 
12-36" 
12-36” 
12-48” 
18-24” 
24-60" 
6-36” 
24-40" 
48-72” 
24-36” 
12-36" 
6-18” 
24-30” 
8-15” 
24-36” 
36-48” 
4-8”
18” 
18” 
14-16” 
18-20” 
8-10” 
12-18” 
6” 
16-24" 
8-20” 
18” 
10-12” 
24" 
6-20” 
24-40" 
18-24” 
12-14” 
18" 
8-10” 
8-18” 
12-18” 
12-24” 
6” 
6”
Average, well-drained 
Average 
Loose 
Sandy, well-drained 
Well-drained 
Well-drained 
Moist 
Rich, fertile 
Rich,well-drained 
Average 
Rich, well-drained 
Average 
Any soil 
Well-drained 
Rich, well-drained 
Average 
Loose soil 
Rich, loose 
Any soil 
Rich, moist 
Average 
Average 
Average
Full 
Full 
Full 
Partial 
Partial 
Full 
Full/Partial
Full 
Full 
Full/Partial
Full 
Full/Partial
Full/Partial
Partial 
Full/Partial
Full/Partial
Full 
Full 
Full/Partial
Full/Partial
Full 
Full/Partial
Partial

 

When summer ends: preserving summer bulbs

Summer-flowering Bulbs

Semi-tropical natives such as dahlias, gladioli, begonias, canna, caladium, elephant ears, oxalis and other tender summer-flowering bulbs will not make it through the winter outside of the warmest climate zones.

Tender bulbs can be either treated as annuals and composted or tossed out, or they can be lifted and stored. This depends solely on your preference. Some gardeners can’t be bothered (and some bulbs are inexpensive). Others love to baby their bulbs and tuck them away for the winter.

For those who like to keep their bulbs from year to year:

  • Tender summer bulbs should be left in the ground until frost blackens the foliage. (This is true for all except tuberous begonias, which should be dealt with before frost.)
  • Carefully dig up the bulbs, being careful not to damage them. Cut off excess foliage and brush off loose soil. Set the bulbs out in a warm, dry place with good air circulation to dry for a day or two. When dry, brush off remaining soil, being careful not to bruise the bulbs when handling, as this promotes mold.
  • After the bulbs are dry, cut off any remaining foliage and pack the bulbs in a few layers of an appropriate "medium" such as perlite, vermiculite, cocoa hulls, clean sawdust or peat moss.
  • Store in a container, with layers of bulbs separated by your medium of choice in a dry place until spring. Optimal storage temperatures vary for different bulbs, but typically range just under or over 50° degrees. Don’t worry yourself needlessly — few people have temperature-controlled storage areas — store your bulbs as best you can.

A few notes: dahlia stems may have water in them. Hang them upside down to drain. When digging gladioli, you'll notice that the shriveled old corm is there, replaced by new corms. Separate the corms. Out with the old and store the new.

Remember, not all summer-blooming bulbs are tender. Lilies, for example, are winter hardy. So are alliums. Hardy summer bulbs, like most of their spring-blooming cousins, are perennial performers and can overwinter in the garden.

Storage Temperature for Summer Bulbs

For storage, temperatures and moisture conditions vary for each type of bulb. For some bulbs, the precise storage conditions are known, for others not.  When grown in containers, it is usually best to keep bulbs in the pot and store the pot under the correct conditions.  Here are some tips by variety: 

Achimenes - Leave rhizomes in container, dry out planting medium, and place at 60-70° F (16-21°C).

Agapanthus - Two overwintering options are possible, depending on the variety. They are:

1.Leave fleshy rhizomes in container with slightly moist planting medium and place at 35 to 55°F (2-13°C).

2.Place container in cool. 35 to 55°F [2-13°C], greenhouse and water sparingly during the winter. Return to growing area in spring.

Amaryllis belladonna - Store bulbs in container at 55 to 70°F (13- 21°C).

Anemone coronaria (St. Brigid and De Caen) - Store tubers dry at 50 to 55°F (10-13°C).

Begonia (Tuberous Hybrids) - Harvest the corms in fall, and store in dry peat at 35 to 40°F (2-5°C).

Canna - Harvest rhizomes in fall, and store in dry peat or vermiculite at 40 to 50°F (5-10°C).

Crinum - Store bulbs in slightly moist sand at 35 to 45°F (2-7°C). If grown indoors in a container, place in a bright, cool [55°F, 13°C] night temperature room.

Crocosmia (syn. Montbretia) - Store corms in peat or vermiculite at 35 to 40°F (2- 5°C).

Dahlia - Harvest tuberous roots in fall, keep away from drafts, and store in vermiculite or dry sand at 35 to 45°F (2-7°C).

Eucomis - Store bulbs dry at 55 to 58°F (13-20°C).

Freesia - Store corms or containers dry at 75 to 85°F (25-30°C).

Galtonia - Store bulbs dry in vermiculite at 60 to 75°F (17-23°C).

Gladiolus - Harvest corms after foliage dies. Store dry in mesh bags 40 to 50°F (5-13 °C). ]

Gladiolus callianthus (syn. Acidanthera bicolor) - Harvest corms in the fall, dry, clean carefully, and store at 55 to 70°F (13-20°C).

Haemanthus - Bring containers indoors and either store dry or continue growing at 55 to 65°F (13-18°C).  

Hymenocallis - Place container-grown plants indoors and grow them at 55 to 65°F (13-18°C). To store unplanted bulbs, harvest them carefully leaving soil around the roots, and store dry at 60 to 70°F (16-21°C).

Ixia - Store corms dry at 68 to 75°F (20-25°C).

Liatris - Store corms in moist peat at 35°F (2°C).

Lilium - Better to leave in the ground, but can be stored in moist peat at 35°F (2°C).

Nerine - Store bulbs dry or in container with ventilation at 35°F (2°C).

Ornithogalum (Tender Species) - Store bulbs dry at 70 to 80°F 21-27°C.

Oxalis (Tender Species) - Store rhizomes or bulbs in peat or vermiculite at 35 to 40°F (2-5°C).

Ranunculus - Store tuberous roots dry at 50 to 55°F (10-13°C).

Sandersonia aurantiaca - Store tubers in vermiculite at 55°F (13°C).

Schizostylis - If stored place rhizomes in moist peat at 45°F (7°C). However, it is preferable to let them perennialize.

Sparaxis - Store corms dry at 65 to 75°F (20-25°C).

Sprekelia - Store bulbs dry in peat or vermiculite at 40 to 55°F (5-13°C).

Tigridia - Store bulbs in peat or vermiculite at 35 to 40°F (2-5°C).

Veltheimia - If possible, do not store bulbs. If stored, keep dry at 75°F(25°C). When bulbs are in containers, take indoors for winter at 50 to 60°F (10-16°C). Blooms in February.

Zantedeschia (Calla Lilies) - Store rhizomes or tubers dry at 50 to 60°F (10- 16°C). Take care not to injure the storage organs.

Zephyranthes - Store bulbs in peat or vermiculite at 50 to 60°F (10-16°C).

Courtesy of the International Flower Bulb Center (www.bulb.com)

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