Puerto Rican sofrito is easy to make at home! Vegetables and herbs are blended together to form the base for many Puerto Rican dishes. This is why Puerto Rican cuisine is so flavorful!

This Puerto Rican version of sofrito—there are many different geographical variations—is a fresh mixture of onions, cubanelle peppers, garlic, cilantro, ajices dulces, cilantro, culantro, tomatoes, and red pepper quickly chopped into a fine paste in a food processor. What you're left with is enough sofrito to add some serious flavor to weeks of meals.

2 medium Spanish onions, cut into large chunks (about 2 cups)
4 cubanelle peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into large chunks (about 2 cups)
18 medium cloves garlic, peeled
1 large bunch cilantro, washed and roughly chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
8 ajices dulces 
4 leaves of culantro
4 ripe plum tomatoes, cored and cut into chunks (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and roughly chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
Kosher salt (optional)
Place onions and cubanelle peppers in workbowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse until coarsely chopped.

With the motor running, add the remaining ingredients one at a time through the feed tube and process until smooth. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to container and store in refrigerator for up to three days, or freeze.<div id='product-

Ají dulce (Capsicum chinense) is a small, light to dark green pepper that turns red, orange and, to a lesser extent, yellow if the fruit is left on the plant long enough to mature. In Puerto Rico, it is known as ají dulce, ajicito or ajíes (sweet pepper and two words for small pepper, respectively, in Spanish) In the Dominican Republic, it is also known as ají gustoso or ají cachucha (tasty pepper, and cap-shaped pepper, respectively, in Spanish) . In other places it is known as ají cachucha. 

Ají dulce has the shape and size of a habanero pepper without the taste of intense heat. Unlike many other countries in Latin America, hot peppers are not commonly used in the cuisines of Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic,
Ají dulce is used to season dishes in Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic and throughout the caribbean . important ingredient for sofrito.



Planting Guide for Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Planting bulbs can seem complicated, but you can simply the process by following this general rule of thumb: plant twice as deep as your bulb height. For instance, if your bulb is two inches large, dig a hole and plant the bulb four inches down. 

While the depth may be a simple formula, when to plant should be based on where you live, and not an exact date. If you're planting in the fall, you'll want to make sure that once planted, your bulbs don't start blooming. To ensure the proper timing, plant bulbs about six weeks before the first expected frost. This allows the bulbs time to take roots, but not enough time for the bulbs to start growing blooms. Before you start planting bulbs, refer to your Planting Zone to ensure most accurate, detailed information.


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Spring-flowering bulbs are planted in the fall to give them ample time to grow roots during winter and come up early in the spring. So, if you think that autumn’s the time to stop gardening, think again! Fall will be bulb-planting time! It’s so easy to stick bulbs in the ground—and so magical to see their colorful blooms emerge in late winter and early spring!

Bulbs can be Pre-order from a Here ahead of time, so that the bulbs arrive right in time for fall planting. Or, make a note in your calendar to buy bulbs in the fall.  Planting time is usually late September to mid-October in northern climate so that bulbs can grow roots before the ground freezes. (Tulips are one exception–you can plant these as late as you can get them into the soil.) In southern climates, plant bulbs in mid-October through November; you can plant them as late as December but the later you wait, the less able the bulbs will be to establish themselves.

Make sure you buy your bulbs from a reputable nursery or garden center. Remember, second-rate bulbs produce second-rate flowers, don’t sprout at all, and often don’t return year after year. Don’t forget to plant extra for cutting so you can bring some of that spring color indoors. 


Here are some of the most popular spring-blooming bulbs planted in the fall. See the chart farther down this page for planting information on these and other spring flower favorites.

  • Daffodils are a favorite because they are vole- and deer-resistant.


  • Jonquils have tiny blooms and naturalize. They’re one of the first flowers to bloom—and look especially lovely when planted in a grove or field together.


  • Crocus are a spring-flowering favorite, and come in a range of colors.


  • Snowdrop (Galanthus) are little white bells that bloom in early spring.


  • Hyacinth (including grape hyacinths) are small blue clusters of tiny bell-shaped blooms which are good for naturalizing.


  • Tulips looks beautiful when planted en masse and bloom after the daffodils. They look great paired with grape hyacinth.

Flower bulbs


  • Gladiolus have tall beautiful spikes and tend to bloom in late spring to mid-summer, depending on the variety.



Click here or on the image above to see a larger version of the chart.


  • Plant fall bulbs after the heat of summer has passed, but before the ground freezes. Consult our Frost Dates Calculator to see when the first fall frost will be in your area. In the lower South, where you may not have a hard freeze, early November is a good time to plant.
  • Ideally, plant your bulbs soon after you purchase them.
  •  If you cannot plant the bulbs right away, store them at around 60 to 65 degrees F. in a dry area. Temperatures above 70 degrees F. may damage the flower buds.
  • See the chart, below, for type of bulbs by hardiness zone. In the warmer South, note that some bulbs need to be treated as annuals instead of perennials; they’ll bloom once and then they’re done. For example, you will have to plant tulip bulbs again each year. Still, they are a beautiful sight to behold and well worth the effort! Other fall bulbs, such as daffodils, will act as perennials and come up year after year.
  • In warm climates, you may need to pre-cool some bulbs. Most spring-flowering bulbs require a 12 to 16 week cold period in ventilated packages in the bottom of your refrigerator at 40 to 50 degrees F. before planting. Check with your bulb supplier to determine whether the bulbs you purchase have been pre-cooled or whether you may need to give them a cold treatment.


  • Select a site with lots of sun and well-drained soil. Work a few inches of compost into the soil before planting.
  • Bulbs love great planted in a grove, near the mailbox, as swaths of colors in garden beds, and as colorful borders.
  • Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout. And plant them in random order and spacing for a more natural appearance. If you love groves of daffodils and blanketed landscapes of tulips, be prepared to buy and plant a large quantity of bulbs!
  • In general, plant bulbs at a depth of three times the width of the bulb.
  • After planting, apply fertilizer low in nitrogen, such as a 9-6-6 formulation. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
  • Water well after planting. Apply mulch to keep the weeds down and hold in moisture.
  • Do you have voles or squirrels? Consider planting your bulbs in a “cage” fashioned with chicken wire. Also, check out our tips for preventing vole damage and squirrel damage. Or try planting some rodent-proof bulbs.


Plant July /August in Your Vegetable Garden for fall harvest

Plant  July /August in Your Vegetable Garden for fall harvest


Zone 1 is the coldest zone of them all. In some months temps can get as low as -60Zone 1 is the coldest zone of them all. In some months temps can get as low as -60

Seeds that do well in zone 1

Read more →

Vegetable Crops for fall /winter harvest

Vegetable Crops  for fall /winter harvest
  •  Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts , do very well in the fall. (One  important thing to keep in mind is that you plant all of these plants from seedlings NOT SEED’s.) SOW SEEDS NOW
  • plant in August

  • Chicory
  • Sorrel
  • Radish
  • Parsley
  • Endive
  • Dandelion
  • Leeks
  • Mache (Best plant september)
  • Radicchio
  • Mizuna

How To Grow Yams

How To Grow Yams

How To Grow Yams, NOT Sweet Potato


Yam is the common name for some plant species in the genus Dioscorea that form edible tubers. Yams are perennial herbaceous vines cultivated for the consumption of their starchy tubers in many temperate and tropical world regions.

Cut your yam root into chunks about the size of a peach, dip them in ashes, then plant them

I put a bunch of yams into a big pot full of dirt, then I transplanted the ones that sprouted 


Scoville Heat Scale and Pepper Names

Scoville Heat Scale and Pepper Names


1,463,700 Trinidad Scorpion Butch T

855,000-1,041,427 Bhut Jolokia

800,000-1,000,000 Trinidad Scorpion Pepper

350,000-580,000 Red Savina Habanero, Guyana Wiri Wiri
100,000-350,000 Habanero Pepper

100,000-325,000 Scotch Bonnet

100,000-225,000 Guyana Bird’s Eye Pepper

100,000-200,000 Jamaican Hot Pepper

100,000-125,000 Carolina Cayenne Pepper

95,000-110,000 Bahamian Pepper

85,000-115,000 Tabiche Pepper

50,000-100,000 Chiltepin Pepper

50,000-100,000 Thai Pepper

40,000-58,000 Pequin Pepper

40,000-50,000 Santaka Pepper

40,000-50,000 Super Chili Pepper

30,000-50,000 Cayenne Pepper

30,000-50,000 Tabasco Pepper

15,000-30,000 De Arbol Pepper

12,000-30,000 Manzano Pepper

5,000-23,000 Serrano Pepper

5,000-10,000 Chipotle Pepper

5,000-10,000 Hot Wax Pepper

2,500-8,000 Jalapeno Pepper

2,500-5,000 Guajillo Pepper

1,500-2,500 Rocotilla Pepper

1,000-2,000 Ancho Pepper

1,000-2,000 Poblano Pepper

1,000-2,000 Pasilla Pepper

700-1000 Coronado Pepper

500-2,500 Anaheim Pepper

500-1,000 New Mexico Pepper

500-700 Santa Fe Grande Pepper

100-500 Pimento Pepper

100-500 Pepperoncini Pepper

Asian vegetables and different names they are commonly known by





Starting Seeds Indoors Many of our favorite garden vegetables benefit from an extra few weeks under grow lights or on a heating mat before planting out - tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant being just a few.

If you're in a short season growing zone though, don't forget that it's time to sow onions soon! see our Blog  section starting onions from seed indoors  for more information on seed starting

.Cool Season Vegetables

Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Chard Collards Garlic Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Seeds Mescluns Mustard Greens Radish Spinach

Seeds and Bulbs that can be Planted in the Fall

Flowering Onion, Allium Columbine, Aquilegia Corydalis, Corydalis Daphne, Daphne Cranesbill, Erodium Sea Holly, Eryngium Flowering Cabbage, Brassica Heather, Calluna Trumpet Vine, Allamanda Bleeding Heart, Dicentra Burning Bush, Dictamnus Butterfly Gaura, Gaura Golden Chain Tree, Allium Honeysuckle, Lonicera Shooting Star, Dodecatheon Gentian, Gentiana Christmas Rose, Helleborus Daylilies, Hemerocallis Iris, Iris Lavender, Lavandula Bitter Root, Lewisia Lilies, Lilium Cardinal Flowers, Lobelia Meadow Rue, Thalictrum Phlox, Phlox Primroses, Primula Self Heal, Prunella Pasque Flower, Pulsatilla Fingerleaf Rodgersia, Rodgersia Roses, Rosa Salal, Gaultheria Trillium, Trillium Twinspur, Diascia Verbena, Verbena Violets, Viola

You can look up your climate zone here: If you have any question please feel free to ask !! We carry the finest Heirloom seeds, all our seeds our organic, non-gmo and untreated. We specializes in good, old-fashioned, organic, Heirloom, non-gmo, open pollinated vegetable, flower, and Fruit seeds. We have a wide variety of Organic, Heirloom, Rare,Exoctic, Open-pollinated & NON GMO ,Vegetable, Herb, Fruit, and Flower Seeds for sale. Companion Planting! The benefits of Companion Planting include: Minimizing Risk: Increases odds of higher yields even if one crop fails or you are effected by natural hardships such as weather, pests or disease, the overall yield of your plot may be increased by limiting the spread and avoiding a monoculture instead focus on polyculture or mimicing the best natural growth patterns and diversity. Crop Protection/ Shielding: Companion Planting can offer a more delicate plant shelter from weather such as wind or sun by growing aside another plant which can shield and protect while itself having a natural defence against the harsher conditions. Trap Cropping: Companion planting is also the ultimate organic pest management, you may keep away unwanted pests that may be attracted to one crop but repelled by the other and this will assit in protecting the otherwise attractive prey, this is referred to as trap cropping. Positive hosting: Predator recruitment typically in planting in proximity to plants which produce a surplus of nectar and pollen you can increase the population of beneficial insects that will manage your harmful pest population for you.

Here are some basic guidelines for successful companion planting:

starting onions from seed indoors

starting onions from seed indoors


Sowing inside in January or February under growing lights then transplanting to the garden in early spring is the only way that I can grow onions from seed and have them mature in my zone 5 garden. If you live in more southern areas, you can plant onion seeds in late summer to early fall, overwinter, and they will begin growing when the weather warms.

You can get at least an 8 - 12 week headstart on the outdoor onion growing season by starting your onion seeds under a T5 fluorescent grow light. Obviously, starting onions from seed rather than starting from bulbs requires a little extra time anyway. In colder areas in the northern hemisphere you can get started in December (hey it gives you something to do over the winter months) to have seedlings ready to transplant into the garden in early Spring. You can also get Japanese (overwintering) varieties started in August when the intense heat in warmer areas can make starting seedlings difficult. 

Any standard seedling potting mix is fine. Avoid anything with too much nitrogen at first - your onions only require lots of this later! For the first few weeks it's all about roots and starting to build a bulb. I like to mix in some vermiculite (1 part vermiculite, 4 parts potting mix) as this aids in nutrient and moisture retention. Fill flats or cell trays with a well moistened mix - it should be quite wet without being sludge - sprinkle seeds generously and top off with a quarter inch of wet vermiculite. The top layer of wet vermiculite is like a duvet for the seeds - it keeps moisture and temperature levels constant and certainly increases germination rates.

Find a cool spot in your house like a basement or garage. Use a propagator lid on top of your cell tray or flat to help raise relative humidity levels. Lift it once each day for a quick visual inspection. Onion germination is most fast and reliable in the low 70s fahrenheit. A commonly accepted range is 68-75°F (20-24°C). Use a heat mat to keep the bottom of your propagator but discontinue use once the majority of the viable seeds appear to have sprouted.

As a general rule of thumb, you should set your T5 fluorescent grow lights on to 12 hours a day to start onion seeds. Keep your T5 fluorescent grow light raised up at least a foot or so above the propagator - monitor temperatures inside the propgator using a min/max thermometer with a remote probe. Don't let it get too warm in there! If temperatures are higher than the mid 70s, try raising your lights or discontinuing use of your heat mat.

Planting flowers in Pots and container

Planting flowers in Pots and container

How Not To Kill Plants In Containers

Thing must avoid to make your container plants keep growing.


1. Overwatering

Many new gardeners believe that the more they water, the better. All plants (including non-potted plants) have the different watering needs and *those needs may also vary depending upon the time of the year or season, the amount of light and ambient temperature. The easiest solution to avoid this problem is knowing the moisture level required by each plant.

2. Underwatering

It is equally harmful to the plants. Back to the same point, it is essential to know the moisture requirements of each plant to keep them healthy. Also, it is obvious, in summer all the plants require more water, and you should double the amount of water. When you water your plants, do it thoroughly, so that the entire substrate moisten well and the slight amount of water seeps out from the bottom holes of the pots and then wait for it to dry (with the method of poking your finger) and then water again.

3. You do not know everything about the plant

No two plants are identical. The number one thing you should do is read the instructions that come with the plant you have acquired. Always, when you purchase plants in the nursery ask them about the growing requirements. Whenever you get a new plant search about it thoroughly on the web. There are many gardening websites (ours too) and blogs of enthusiastic gardeners who have excellent information about plants.

Yo might be wrong if you think all plants love the sun, there are some that require shade or part shade. According to experts, the plants themselves can tell us if they are getting the right amount of light or not. For example, the leaves may change color or become scorched or brownish if they are getting too much sunlight. On the other hand, if you notice that your plant is “stretching its neck” toward the light or the leaves are excessively bigger then they definitely need more light. One thing to be noted is that when the warm climate plants are grown in colder zones (whether they are grown there in full or part sun), they require full sun. Similarly, the temperate plants in warm tropics grow best in part sun or shade.

5. Moving or changing position of plants

6. Incorrect soil

Each plant species has different planting needs and soil requirements. It is recommended that you do proper research about the soil type before planting any plant. However, in containers, well-draining soil is used to avoid root rot. You can make your own light and crumbly soilless mix or buy an organic potting mix of good quality.

7. No transplanting

Potted plants may feel “subjected” to their containers. The majority of them outgrow their pots over a period of about one to two years (depending on how quickly they grow), so it is important that you transplant them into a larger container with fresh and well-nourished potting soil. You can prune the roots of your plants if you don’t want to change their existing pot.

8. Ignoring the pests

Some of the most common pests that can affect your potted plants are aphids, spider mites, scales, whiteflies, and mealybugs. You can prevent pests from attacking your container garden with some techniques. Whenever you buy a new plant, scrutinize it to see any sign of pests or diseases. Keep an eye on diseased or weak plants or the ones that are in stress; pests prefer to attack such plants. Look at the inside of leaves and tips of the plants; these are the parts that pests infest most. If pests are already damaging your plants, first identify what type of pests they are and then treat them appropriately, prefer organic pesticides.

9. Carelessness

Are you going on a vacation? It is good for you but not for your potted plants. Be sure to make arrangements for them. Ask someone to come and water the plants when you are away. Another option is to use self-watering containers, they are great especially if you’re a busy person and often forget about watering your plants.

10. Less or no fertilizer

Potted plants depend on soil nutrients and can often require supplements to grow better and healthy besides improving the production of flowers and fruits. Using a balanced fertilizer (easily available) regularly and according to the package instructions, you can ensure that your plants are getting all the nutrients they need. While most of your plants do well with balanced fertilizer, there may be some that require a specific combination of nutrients.

11. Overfertilization

Overfertilization can also harm your plants. It can even kill them. Fertilizers, when used in excess, can damage the roots. If you see the symptoms like yellowing and wilting of lower leaves, browning leaf tips, and its margins, defoliation, slow or no growth, then it is possible that your plant is suffering from overfertilization.

12. No pinching, deadheading, and pruning


If you want bushier growth, pinch the tips of young plants. Also, many flowering plants require “deadheading,” which means picking and removing the old flowers to promote new ones. You will know when to remove them once the flowers start to fade or wilt or turn brownish.

Potted plants require pruning too, and on time, some of the fruits and flowering plants produce only on new branches, so if you must not ignore pruning.

13. Exposing to extreme temperatures

If you research carefully about the plants, you’ll find how much temperature (maximum or minimum) they tolerate best. In winters, if require, it is good if you protect such plants by keeping them indoors or in a greenhouse.

If you’re living in a warm climate where summers are hot, protect your plants from the intense sun in summer.

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